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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.